Hiking the Adirondack Rail Trail: A 4-Day, Dog-Friendly Adventure

The question every dog longs to hear. My 3-year-old rescue pup’s ears perk up, her head tilting to the right, ready for more information about said jaunt. We’re in our room at the Golden Arrow Lakeside Resort, the contents of my pack organized on the bed around Scout. She’s 92% Australian Cattle Dog— a walk barely makes a dent in her seemingly endless energy. But this was no ordinary walk. 

Over the span of 4 days, we’d be tackling the entire 34-mile Adirondack Rail Trail, from Lake Placid to Tupper Lake, with overnights in between. The last (and most remote) leg of the trail had been completed months prior, prompting the curation of this endeavor in my backyard of the Adirondack Mountains. The multi-recreational trail was the perfect dog-friendly adventure. 

Not so perfect? Doing our trek during black fly season, but it was worth it. With our head nets and other backpacking essentials in tow, Scout and I set out on our first day: 9.3 miles to Saranac Lake. The sun was out in full force, with a bonus solid breeze keeping the black flies at bay; a stroke of good luck straight out of the gate. The High Peaks hung in the distance as we meandered the mostly flat path through the forest, skirting by rivers and ponds. As we found our rhythm, Scout seemed happier with each mile-marker passed. Just shy of Saranac Lake, my legs began to protest, but luckily we were close to our hotel for the evening, the lakeside Voco Saranac Lake Waterfront by IHG. After a much-needed shower and nap, and we were ready to refuel at our favorite spot, River Trail Beerworks before tucking in for some hardcore sleep, Scout tucked in between the pillows like a cute little tired croissant.

The next day’s stretch was 7.06 miles, from Saranac Lake to Lake Clear, where we’d be slumbering at the Lake Clear Lodge & Resort, the longest operating Great Camp in the Adirondacks, with a private beach and on-site restaurant. The rail trail was abuzz with activity: cyclists, fishermen casting a line into Lake Colby, and a handful of other walkers enjoying another day of lovely weather. We stopped for our bagged lunch (sandwiches from Nori’s Village Market), and a few photos at the picturesque McCauley Pond. By mid-afternoon we’d arrived at our cabin at Lake Clear Lodge ready for a beer by the shore to say “cheers” to the halfway point. Scout was exhausted, snoozing in the grass as the sunset painted the sky.

Day 3 from Lake Clear to our intended campsite at Floodwood (15 primitive sites) was 9.25 miles, with some extra company by way of black flies and mosquitoes—we didn’t let it get our spirits down, but we did amp up our speed. The second half of the rail trail is the most removed, with fewer access points, no services, and little to no cell signal; a true disconnect. I was glad to have the Rail Trail App on hand as an interactive resource, since it requires no wifi. The trail weaved through wetlands, with loads of lush greenery thanks to the wet spring. We passed only a handful of bikers, leaving the rest of the backcountry solitude to us. The Floodwood Outpost was a sight for sore eyes (or in this case, our feet and paws). Inside, there’s a little shop with provisions like soda, chips, and backpacking meals, as well as limited camping supplies.

By 5pm we were cozied up in our tent as an escape from the biting bugs and impending rain. Scout was so tired she climbed into her sleeping bag and slept soundly straight through til morning, while the rain came down in droves. Our last leg was a very wet 8.4 miles to Tupper Lake, which added drama to the already cinematic scenery: fog-riddled mountains and ponds, moody woodlands, and plenty of regal resident loons. I pictured the splendor of fall; crimson reds, burnt oranges, bright yellows, and rusty browns, all framing the trail.

The trail was ours; no one brave enough to venture out in the persistent rain. There was no doubt about it, we were exhausted, but oh-so-close at each mile marker. Once the Tupper Lake train station came into view, we used our last bits of energy reserves to cross the finish line, ready to rejoice at our accomplishment at the nearby Raquette River Brewing, where Scout immediately took a snooze while I quenched my thirst with the aptly named Rail Trail Pale Ale. 

Bedtime at the Trailhead by Weekender was an early one, Scout and I most likely snoring in unison. 

While you can do sections of the Adirondack Rail Trail, this smashed-together multi-day trek was quite the adventure, one that rendered both of us tired and satisfied. After all, I had promised Scout a walk, and, well, we nailed it.